The sharpening process starts with beveling the saw blade with a fine oil or water stone. The bevel is made on the top side of saw blade. This will provide you with a cut that is square on one side and beveled on the other. The side that is square is the side that is taped when making a joint between two pieces of veneer.

Hold the blade between your thumb and the inside edge of your index finger at approximately 15 degrees. Stroke the blade across the stone several times and then check your progress. You'll need a gentle sweeping-arch motion to bevel each tooth on the saw.

Take your time with this process and be cautious that you do not file off the tips of the teeth. They should feel prickly when you are done. If you over-sharpen the points, they will feel (and look) flat and the saw won't cut veneer correctly.

After beveling the saw, you need to hone the back side of the face with a water or oil stone. A few seconds of light honing will make a difference in the quality of the cut. This process is not to make the back of the saw blade perfectly flat. That really can't be done on these saws because of the thickness of the blade.

The edge should now be ultra-sharp and ready to crosscut and rip any veneer like a laser.