JoeWoodworker Veneer
The Official Website of this Non-Professional Woodworker ™

Part 1

Veneering Basics
14 Good Reasons
Vacuum Press Uses
Vacuum Press Options
Questions & Answers
Part 2
DIY Vacuum Press Plans

Vacuum Press Chart
Project: EVS™
Project: EVS-2™
Project: V4™
Project: CRS™
Excel 1™
Excel 3™
Excel 5™
Part 3
Vacuum Bagging

Vacuum Bag Basics
Polyurethane vs. Vinyl
DIY Vacuum Bags
Connect the Bag
Bag Closures
Bag Platens
Breather Mesh
DIY Frame Press

Part 4
Veneering Information

About Veneer
Veneering Glossary
Veneering Myths
Balancing a Panel

Veneer Glues
Veneering Tips
Substrate Materials
Flattening Veneers
A Sharp Veneer Saw
Jointing Veneers
Taping Veneers
Dealing with Defects
Curing Glued Panels
Veneering w/o Vacuum
Hammer Veneering
Iron-On Veneering
Veneer Storage
Amazing Bookmatches
Edgebanding Guide
Paper-Backed Veneer


Part 5
Miscellaneous Info

Vacuum Press FAQ
Veneering FAQ
Veneer Glue FAQ
Vacuum Forming
Vacuum Clamping Pedal
Vacuum Clamping Jigs
Vacuum Clamp Matrix
DIY Vacuum Manifold
Vacuum Press Gallery 1
Vacuum Press Gallery 2


Vacuum Veneering - Tips, Tricks, and More

Sharpening a Veneer Saw

A perfect seam line begins with a perfect cut and a sharp veneer saw is the best way to get there. This article explains the simple task of sharpening a standard veneer saw.

There are some veneer books that recommend filing off the tips of the saw and then forming new teeth with a file. I can't imagine why an author would put such useless and misleading information in a book. Do not file off the teeth! That would be "pointless". Get it?

The sharpening process starts with beveling the saw blade with a fine oil or water stone. The bevel is made on the top side of saw blade. This will provide you with a cut that is square on one side and beveled on the other. The side that is square is the side that is taped when making a joint between two pieces of veneer.

Hold the blade between your thumb and the inside edge of your index finger at approximately 15 degrees. Stroke the blade across the stone several times and then check your progress. You'll need a gentle sweeping-arch motion to bevel each tooth on the saw.

Take your time with this process and be cautious that you do not file off the tips of the teeth. They should feel prickly when you are done. If you over-sharpen the points, they will feel (and look) flat and the saw won't cut veneer correctly.

After beveling the saw, you need to hone the back side of the face with a water or oil stone. A few seconds of light honing will make a difference in the quality of the cut. This process is not to make the back of the saw blade perfectly flat. That really can't be done on these saws because of the thickness of the blade.

The edge should now be ultra-sharp and ready to crosscut and rip any veneer like a laser.

Sharpen Veneer Saw

Hone the Back Side

A Perfect Edge


Dual Edge Veneer Saw at
With 18 fine, unset teeth per inch, this saw cuts with precision accuracy. Though I am a "lefty" and these saws are designed for right handed people, I've had no trouble using the saw in my right hand. I use my left hand to hold the straightedge down and my right hand to saw. As long as the as the saw is sharp, you won't need to apply much pressure to cut the veneers cleanly.

Veneer Saw Types

This veneer saw uses the "ramps" grind which is a much improved design over the traditional "mountain grind".

These superb veneer saws are available hand-sharpened on both sides of the blade for a thin, true and laser-like cut. I absolutely guarantee that you will cut exceptional seams with this saw using the right technique.


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