A Guide to Veneering With Patinated Copper Veneer


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Part 1
Introduction
Welcome
Veneering Basics
14 Good Reasons
Vacuum Press Uses
Deciding on a Model
Overview
____________________
Part 2a (Option 1 of 2)
Project: V2 Venturi Press
About Project: V2
Parts List
Build the Manifold
Build the Reservoirs
Assemble the Venturi
Make the Carrier
Wire the Press
Testing and Adjusting
Mods and Options
____________________
Part 2b (Option 2 of 2)
Project: EVS Pump Press
About Project: EVS
Parts List
Pump Selection
Build the Manifold
Build the Sub-Manifold
Build the Reservoirs
Make the Carrier
Final Assembly
Wire the Press
Testing and Adjusting
Mods and Options
____________________
Part 3
Vacuum Bags
Vacuum Bag Basics
Polyurethane vs. Vinyl
DIY Vacuum Bags (A)
DIY Vacuum Bags (B)
DIY Vacuum Bags (C)
Connect the Bag
Bag Closures
Platens/Cauls
Breather Mesh
Maintenance
____________________
Part 4
Veneer Information
About Veneer
Backer Veneer
Veneer Glues
Veneering Tips
Substrate Materials
Flattening Veneers
Edgebanding Guide
A Sharp Veneer Saw
Jointing Veneers
Taping Veneers
Dealing with Defects
Curing Glued Panels
Veneering w/o Vacuum
Iron-On Veneering
Veneer Storage
Amazing Bookmatches
Copper Veneer Guide
Paperbacked Veneer ____________________
Part 5
Miscellaneous Info
Vacuum Frame Press
Vacuum Forming
Vacuum Chucking
Vacuum Clamping
Vacuum Clamp Matrix
Vacuum Infusing
DIY Vacuum Manifold
JWW Visitors' Vacs
Veneer Quality
HH-66 MSDS
Veneering FAQ
The Vac FAQ
Downloads (PDF's)

Veneering With Copper

copper veneer project There are a few woodworking and crafts catalogs that offer a "liquid patina" that instantly ages copper. These concoctions chemically react with the copper and create a mesmerizing parade of patterns and colors. I've never had the time or patience to try my hand at this chemical art form, but I imagine that it's quite rewarding. Honestly, my shop is too crowded with tools and junk to set up a place to work with the copper and patina mixes.

Luckily, a very cool product is available that allows anyone to jump right into using this colorful copper without the chemical mess. What is it? It's pre-patinated copper veneer and it's unbelievably gorgeous. There are ten varieties of this copper veneer but countless patterns and colors that shown on each sheet.

If you are woodworker, you'll find that copper veneer works much like wood veneer. Of course, it's a bit fragile in its raw form so it must be handled gently. Nevertheless, it is a unique and intriguing material that will surely have family, friends, and customers lining up to get their hands on any project you create. Copper samples are now available so you can get an affordable look at what is available.

A Word of Caution
Well, two words of caution... SHARP EDGES. Keep in mind that the edges of the copper veneer can be quite sharp. Exercise care when handling this material to prevent injury. If in doubt, wear gloves or other suitable protection.

Simple Tricks and Basic Tools Yield Outstanding Results
Copper veneering requires no significant investment in tools or machinery. A few basic tools are all you need.

Steel Roller
12" x 12" piece of thick vinyl (30 gauge works very well)
J-roller or vacuum press
Contact cement (solvent based) or TC-20 copper adhesive
A substrate board (plywood, MDF, etc.)

Smooth It Out
Copper veneer is rolled onto a cardboard tube for shipping to protect it from bending and creasing in transit. But it's very likely that your copper will have a small crease in one or two areas. This is normal and easily repaired with a steel roller and a piece of vinyl. To remove a crease, set the copper on a smooth surface, place a piece of 30 gauge vinyl over the blemish, and use the steel roller to roll out the wrinkle. A few passes will do the trick.

Copper Crease

Roll It Out

Crease Fixed!

Stickin' It
There are two ways to adhere copper to a substrate. Each is significantly different from the other; however, both will achieve good results. The choice to use one over the other depends on several factors. Here are some tidbits to chew on.

	Method 1: Solvent Based Contact Cement	Method 2: TC-20 ™ Copper Adhesive
Bonds to…	Porous and non-porous surfaces including melamine, laminates, most metals, and plastics	Porous surfaces such as wood, MDF, plywood, and particle board
Bond Strength	Satisfactory for most applications but can peel off if not protected. Contact cement does not harden when cured.	Excellent, if applied correctly. TC-20 dries hard which makes edges stronger and panels that can withstand more abuse.
Machining	To saw a copper veneered panel, you must place another board on top of the panel to prevent tear out damage.	Cuts cleanly with a sharp saw blade. A crisp edge is possible if the panel is properly adhered. This is the ideal method if you plan to scroll saw the veneered project.
Application Tools	J-Roller	A vacuum press is ideal but other face-clamping options work as well.
Cure Time	Approximately 20 minutes	Approximately 90 minutes
Fumes/V.O.C.'s	Yes. Contact cement emits harmful fumes. It must be used in a well ventilated area.	No. TC-20 does not emit any harmful fumes.
Clean Up	Most contact cements will clean up with lacquer thinner.	TC-20 can be cleaned up with water while it's still wet.
Coverage Per Pint	25 Square feet (must apply to veneer and substrate)	30 Square feet (apply to substrate only)
Price Per Pint	$8.95	$11.95
Notes:	Don't try this with water-based contact cement. Only a solvent based contact cement will work.	TC-20 is available at VeneerSupplies.com

Method 1: Contact Cement
This is the simple way to apply copper veneer if you can work in a well ventilated area and don't mind the fumes.

Use scissors to cut the copper veneer 1" larger than the substrate.
Make sure all of the creases and wrinkles have been eliminated or minimized using the steel roller and vinyl sheeting. Be certain that the substrate material and copper veneer are free of any dust or debris.
In a well ventilated area, apply contact cement to the face side of the substrate and the back side of the copper veneer.
Follow the contact cement manufacturer instructions in regard to set times.
When the contact cement is ready, carefully place the copper veneer onto the substrate and use the J-Roller to roll out the copper veneer from edge to edge. The key to a good bond is rolling every square inch of surface area. Be sure to apply firm downward pressure on the roller.
The copper veneer is thin, so trimming is fairly easy. When the panel is finished, trim the edges with scissors or razor knife. You can also trim the edges by placing another board on top of the veneered panel and cutting off any excess with a table saw equipped with at least a 55 tooth blade. A router equipped with a flush trimming bit will also work. Do not use a veneer saw to trim the copper.

Method 2: TC-20 Copper Adhesive
(Thanks to Bill Holmes of Stockbridge GA for contributing to this method)

If you've used a vacuum press for wood veneering, you'll find that copper veneer works just like wood veneer. This is my preferred method of application. I'm definitely not a big fan of contact cement and the vacuum press has a tendency to leave a smoother surface on copper veneer.

Use scissors to cut the copper veneer 1/8" to 1/4" larger than the substrate.
Make sure all of the creases and wrinkles have been eliminated or minimized using the steel roller and vinyl sheeting. Be certain that the substrate material and copper veneer are free of any dust or debris.
This step is critical!
Place the veneer face down on a smooth, clean surface. Gently scuff-sand the back of the copper veneer with 80 or 120 grit sandpaper. Be sure to scuff all parts that are to be bonded (especially corners and edges). Be certain to wear gloves while doing this to prevent any chemical residue from contact your skin.
Thoroughly clean the back side of the copper veneer with water and a steel wool or synthetic wool pad. Be certain to wear gloves while doing this to prevent any chemical residue from contact your skin. Wipe off any residue.
Scuff-sand the substrate with 80 or 120 grit sandpaper to ensure a perfect bond.
Using a glue roller, apply the TC-20 adhesive to the substrate. Do not apply it to the copper veneer.
Place the copper veneer onto the substrate. To prevent shifting, tape the copper veneer to the edge of the substrate. Be sure to use blue masking tape. Regular masking tape will be hard to remove after pressing the panel.
If you are using a vacuum press, place the panel in the vacuum bag and clamp it shut. Allow the press to run for 45 minutes before removing the panel. The ideal pressure for vacuum pressing is 21" of Hg.
If you opt to use a different clamping method, be sure that to apply evenly distributed pressure to the entire panel surface. Allow the panel to cure for 45 minutes before unclamping.
You'll notice that the bond is very weak when the panel is first removed from the press. Curing takes a minimum of 90 minutes outside of the press but allow 24 hours for a full bond especially if you are machining the panel.
Since the copper is thin, the edges can be trimmed with a table saw or miter saw equipped with a sharp blade with at least 55 teeth. A router with a flush trimming bit works nicely as well. Do not use a veneer saw to trim the copper.

Adding Flash to Pizzazz
Most of the copper veneers have a dull sheen which somewhat subdues the colors and patterns. Though the patina is permanent and will not rub off, a good coat of paste wax will bring out the best in the copper and protect it as well. Carnuba based car wax works quite well but any wax will work as long as it doesn't have "cleaner" or polishing agents in it.

For even more character, you can opt to distress the copper veneer by poking holes in after it is pressed. And for the ultimate distressing, some artisans have dented, dinged, and creased the surface using the steel roller. These randomly spaced "character marks" give the panel a hand-worked feel and an antique look.

Take a Look at These Beauties

	Azul Azul is undeniably gorgeous. Rich blue and turquoise dominate over shades of light brown in a burl-like pattern. You can't go wrong with this one.
	Bamboo Bamboo has a very sharp and eye-catching appearance. Robust dark brown lines chatter throughout the sheet. It compliments nearly all wood tones and has the potential to become the focus of your project.
	Dark Tarnish Dark Tarnish demands attention. It is primarily black in color with peaks of copper shining through in an almost algorithmic sense.
	Distressed Distressed is an outstanding copper veneer with a dark field covered in nearly-black "particles" of color. A sure favorite among craftsman style builders.
	Enchantment Enchantment is one of the more visually dramatic designs. Shades of brown and black cascade from end to end displaying a waterfall-like effect that has to be seen to be believed.
	Mottled Mottled is simply amazing. Each sheet is draped in stunning brown and black colors in a varying array of mesmerizing patterns. The patina on this copper is simple breath-taking.
	Rojo Rojo shows off the classic copper patina colors. Varying layers of sea green color cover a background of rich tans and browns. This is the epitome of patinated copper sheeting.
	Rojo Negro Rojo Negro holds nothing back. Molten red, orange, and occasional black colors flow around the sheets in wild variation. Outstanding in every way.
	Tarnish This is one of the more subdued of the copper veneers. It is simple and understated with the warm orange glow of aged copper. Ideal for modest designs that require a more organic feel.
	Verde Verde is the quintessential copper veneer. The classic copper brown field is camouflaged by intense greens in a burl-like pattern that must be seen to be believed.
	Zebra The perfect blend of bold bronze and black colors can be found in the Zebra copper veneer. Gorgeous casts of dark brown and black flow along the sheet creating a primitive and seemingly purposeful design.