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VeneerSupplies.com
The Official Website of this Non-Professional Woodworker ™

Part 1
Introduction

Welcome
Veneering Basics

14 Good Reasons
Vacuum Press Uses
Deciding on a Model
Overview

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Part 2a (Option 1 of 2)
Project: V2 Venturi Press

About Project: V2
Parts List
Build the Manifold
Build the Reservoirs
Assemble the Venturi
Make the Carrier
Wire the Press
Testing and Adjusting
Mods and Options
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Part 2b (Option 2 of 2)
Project: EVS Pump Press

About Project: EVS
Parts List
Pump Selection
Build the Manifold
Build the Sub-Manifold
Build the Reservoirs
Make the Carrier
Final Assembly
Wire the Press
Testing and Adjusting
Mods and Options
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Part 3
Vacuum Bags

Vacuum Bag Basics
Polyurethane vs. Vinyl
DIY Vacuum Bags (A)
DIY Vacuum Bags (B)
DIY Vacuum Bags (C)
Connect the Bag
Bag Closures
Platens/Cauls
Breather Mesh
Maintenance
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Part 4
Veneer Information

About Veneer
Backer Veneer

Veneer Glues
Veneering Tips
Substrate Materials
Flattening Veneers
Edgebanding Guide
A Sharp Veneer Saw
Jointing Veneers
Taping Veneers
Dealing with Defects
Curing Glued Panels
Veneering w/o Vacuum
Iron-On Veneering
Veneer Storage
Amazing Bookmatches
Copper Veneer Guide
Paperbacked Veneer
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Part 5
Miscellaneous Info

Vacuum Frame Press
Vacuum Forming
Vacuum Chucking
Vacuum Clamping
Vacuum Clamp Matrix
Vacuum Infusing
DIY Vacuum Manifold
JWW Visitors' Vacs
Veneer Quality
HH-66 MSDS
Veneering FAQ
The Vac FAQ
Downloads (PDF's)

VeneerSupplies.com

Vacuum Press

Sharpening a Veneer Saw

You will need to bevel the saw blade with a fine oil or water stone. The bevel must be made on the same side of the saw as the handle because you'll need a perfectly flat surface to ride against your straight edge. This will provide you with a cut that is square on one side and beveled on the other. The side that is square is the side that is taped when making a joint between two pieces of veneer.

Hold the blade between your thumb and the inside edge of your index finger at approximately 15 degrees. Stroke the blade across the stone several times and then check your progress. You'll need a gentle sweeping-arch motion to bevel each tooth on the saw.

Take your time with this process and be cautious that you do not over-sharpen the points. They should feel prickly when you are done. If you over-sharpen the points, they will feel (and look) flat and the saw won't cut veneer correctly.

After beveling the saw, you need to hone the back side of the face with a water or oil stone. A few minutes of light honing will make a small, but important difference in the cut.

This edge should now be ultra-sharp and ready to crosscut and rip any veneer like a laser.



About the Two Cherries Veneer Saw...
With 18 fine, unset teeth per inch, this saw cuts with precision accuracy. Though I am a "lefty" and these saws are designed for right handed people, I've had no trouble using the saw in my right hand. I use my left hand to hold the straightedge down and my right hand to saw. As long as the as the saw is sharp, you won't need to apply much pressure to cut the veneers cleanly.
 

The Two Cherries veneer saw uses the "ramps" grind which is a much improved design over the traditional "mountain grind".

These superb veneer saws are available hand-sharpened on both sides of the blade for a thin, true and laser-like cut. I absolutely guarantee that you will cut exceptional seams with this saw using the right technique.

 

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